Hoya Heuschkeliana Best Care Tips

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Hoya Heuschkeliana is native to the Philippines. It is a beautiful succulent with stunning waxy green leaves.

The flowers of Hoya Heuschkeliana are of a variety of colors ranging from pink to yellow. It can be grown anywhere indoors in hanging baskets or outdoor on your lawn. The Latin name for this plant is Hoya Heuschkeliana Variegata.

Hoya Heuschkeliana belongs to the family of Apocynaceae. This adorable species grows small green leaves on cascading branches with several clusters of flowers during the warmer months. Hoya Heuschkeliana is a fast grower and a resilient plant.

It can thrive in hanging in baskets or wrapped on moist support. The leaves of Hoya Heuschkeliana are thick and a little curved.

They are light green on top as compared to underneath. They can vary in size and can be up to 3 inches long and 1.2 inches wide.

Enjoy growing it in your homes as it requires very little maintenance and will flourish for years without any trouble.

 

 

Basic Care Instructions for Hoya Heuschkeliana

Hoya Heuschkeliana likes to sit in partial sunlight. During summer and spring, water your Hoya Heuschkeliana frequently( about 1-3 times a week depending on how warm and dry your environment is). Reduce watering in autumn and winter to about 1-2 times a week. During the growing season, make sure to regularly feed your Hoya Heuschkeliana. You can use a balanced, liquid fertilizer for that purpose. In winter, feed less. This plant does best in temperatures around 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 degrees Celsius).

 

Soil

Ensure Hoya Heuschkeliana is in well-draining soil with a high ratio of perlite or similar (up to 50% is acceptable) to avoid waterlogged soil. Hoya Heuschkeliana doesn’t mind being a bit root-bound. In terms of soil, this plant likes a pleasant and rich blend.

As Hoya Heuschkeliana is an epiphytic, so it is used to having the rich matter in which they will grow. The mixture you can use is a blend of organic potting soil, compost, worm castings, and orchid growing mixture (which is a combination of fine bark and perlite).

Since your Hoya Heuschkeliana is an epiphyte much like orchids and requires excellent drainage, so perlite or bark are good additives. You may also incorporate charcoal, leaf mold, or coco coir. USDA hardiness zone 10a to 11b is perfect for this Hoya.

 

Watering

With its thick water-storing leaves and mostly short roots, Hoya Heuschkeliana does not need much water. Water it as you would a succulent – let the soil entirely dry before watering thoroughly. Keep the soil of Hoya Heuschkeliana moist during the spring and summer season, that is, its active growing season.

Hoya Heuschkeliana is quite susceptible to root rot, so use a moisture meter or your finger in the soil to examine the soil’s humidity in advance of watering. The leaves, too, will curl and wrinkle when they are in need of some water.

Do not let your soil get dry to a point where your Hoya Heuschkeliana leaf starts to get shriveled; hence keep an eye on the plant and provide sufficient water to it.

During the dry season of the year, more frequent watering is necessary so as not to get your plant prone to diseases. However, during the winter season, you can skip the watering once in a while; it won’t affect your plant.

 

Light

For Hoya Heuschkeliana, medium to bright light is best – within a few feet of a window. Hoya Heuschkeliana likes to be in the shade, though, so ensure the light is indirect. If the window receives direct sunlight for a few hours each day, consider using a light curtain to diffuse the light.

The north window is a good location for Hoya Heuschkeliana. You can also choose to use a fluorescent lamp to provide enough light to your Hoya Heuschkeliana. Supply as much light as possible, but the hot sun should be avoided.

 

Temperature

Hoya Heuschkeliana likes to stay in medium to warm temperatures. They will stay happy and healthy at a temperature of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 degrees Celsius) and above. Provide your plant with adequate temperatures during its growing season.

The growing season of Hoya Heuschkeliana is very crucial, and not providing proper temperature can lead to unhealthy plant and even death of the plant. Give Hoya Heuschkeliana a half-day of sunshine but bring them indoors as it starts to get colder outside.

It is preferred to bring the Hoya Heuschkeliana indoor during the winter season as if left outside, it can die due to frost damage. In the winter season, the Hoya Heuschkeliana goes semi-dormant.

Prevent cold draughts and keep them away from sources of heat.

 

Humidity

Hoya Heuschkeliana craves high humidity. While Hoya Heuschkeliana can tolerate most levels of humidity in the home, when the humidity is greater than 60%, they will develop bigger leaves and flowers.

You can try different methods to raise the humidity for these tropical, indoor plants. Try placing water-filled pebble trays under your indoor plants, grouping plants together, or using a cool humidifier for spray.

 

Fertilizer

For Hoya Heuschkeliana, foliar development is stimulated by higher nitrogen fertilizer. Switch to a higher phosphorous content as they are close to blooming. Fertilize during most of the summer with a full liquid fertilizer or fish emulsion twice per month.

A top-dressing of worm castings or compost can be added in the spring as this works like a slow-release fertilizer. Avoid fertilization in winter or autumn.

 

Repotting

When it comes to transplanting and repotting, don’t think your Hoya Heuschkeliana will need it every year. They actually like being tied to the pot, and you’re going to get a better bloom if you leave your Hoya Heuschkeliana in the same pot for a couple of years.

It is best to do repotting for Hoya Heuschkeliana in early spring to early summer. The Hoya Heuschkeliana has no systematic root scheme, and the epiphytic roots are mostly used for anchoring.

The soil mix you should use for the repotting of Hoya Heuschkeliana includes:

• 1/2 potting soil
• 1/2 succulent & cactus mix
• A couple of handful of compost
• A couple of handfuls of coco coir
• A 1/4″ topping of worm compost
• A few handfuls of charcoal

 

Pruning

If the plant is attached to a trellis or solid support, it helps new shoots by winding them around the support. Prune stems that have become aggressive to boost branching and get a more compact plant.

Do not prune too harshly because this plant blooms when the stems have reached an adequate length. Get rid of faded flowers, but do not cut the flower stalk because these will produce new flowers in the next season. Avoid moving the plant while it flowers.

Clean your pruning tools before you get into the process of pruning. Use a disinfectant or rubbing alcohol to do so. Dirty pruning tools can lead to several diseases. Use protective gloves to protect your hands.

 

Propagation

It’s quick to propagate Hoya Heuschkeliana through stem cutting. Hoya Heuschkeliana propagation is successful when the plant is vigorously growing in spring or summer.

• To boost drainage, fill a pot with a well-drained potting mix, like one comprising perlite, vermiculite, or clean sand. Water well and put the pot apart to drain until it is evenly moist but not saturated.
• Slice a good stem with a minimum of two to three leaves. The stem should be about 4 to 5 inches (10-13 cm) tall. Cut the lower stem leaves. The leaves should not enter the soil until the cuttings are grown.
• Pour the solvent or powdered rooting hormone at the bottom of the stem. Hormone rooting is not an absolute prerequisite, but it can improve the likelihood of good rooting.
• To keep the soil uniformly moist, water periodically. Since soggy soil can rot the stem, be careful not to overwater.

You can propagate Hoya Heuschkeliana  using water:

You can start a Hoya Heuschkeliana vine in a glass of water, too. Simply take the cut as above and put it in a water pot, with the leaves well above the surface of the water.

Whenever it gets muddy, swap the water with fresh water. Place it in a container filled with a well-drained potting mix or orchid mix after the root formation.
 

Blooms

It can be rare for Hoya Heuschkeliana to bloom indoors, so don’t be astonished if it doesn’t bloom in its first year or more. But when it does flower, it is brilliant; growing in gorgeous bunches called umbels, and can be very aromatic.

Hoya Heuschkeliana flowers a lot. The flowers are really different compared to other Hoyas. They are urn-shaped, pink, about 0.2 inches, and there can be up to 12 flowers in an umbel. There is also a Hoya Heuschkeliana with yellow flowers with blooms larger than the pink ones.

The scent can be described as caramel-like, sometimes as sour milk. Flowers last up to 7 days; Hoya Heschkeliana blooms all year round
 

Growth

Hoya Heuschkeliana can be grown-up, either hanging or wrapped in support. The leaves differ in size and can be 1.2-2.8 inches long and 0.8-1.2 inches wide. It is believed that the leaves get bigger and thinner when grown in a humid climate.

Usually, the leaves are relatively thick, a little curved, lighter green beneath than on the top, and it can get quite red when grown in full sunlight. The leaves usually are smaller when grown in full sun, only about 0.3-1.2 inches long and 0.3-0.7 inches wide. However, even the small leaves are beautiful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Common Problems for Hoya Heuschkeliana

Some of the concerns that you might encounter with your Hoya Heuschkeliana  are listed below:

 

Botrytis Blight

Botrytis outbreaks on leaf margins or centers are filled by broad greyish patches. The middle of leaves is usually infected as moisture levels are maximum here.

Affected leaves fall and become mushy, and a magnifying glass can clearly see the gritty grey to tan spores of the pathogen. This illness is most prevalent during the year’s colder and lower light cycles.

Decreasing humidity through irrigation management as well as venting greenhouses during the late afternoon have been used to control this disease.

 

Stem and Root Rot

Stem and root rot on Hoya Heuschkeliana sometimes go unobserved until symptoms are quite progressive. This is possibly due to the waxy nature of the plant, which delays wilting even after all roots are rotted.

Lesions on the stems are typically brown to black and can be mushy or dry. If plants are infected with Rhizoctonia, leaves can also be diseased, and the web like red-brown mycelium of the pathogen can become extent across the potting medium surface and leaves.

Cultural disease control is the utmost significant phase in reducing problems with stems and root diseases. Decrease water applications to plants infected with a stem or root rot disease, and be sure to start with a renewed potting medium.

 

Aphids

Aphids are soft-bodied, pear-shaped insects that range from light green to dark brown in color. The Oleander aphid, which is light yellow with dark brown limbs, is the aphid most commonly seen feeding on wax plants.

Infestations sometimes arise from insects flying from infested milkweed or Oleander plants into the greenhouse. Aphids may lead to new growth distortions or, in severe cases, to plants stunt growth.

Aphids are relatively easy to handle, with many registered materials. Soil drenches are effective to combat root aphids. To see what is suitable for your circumstances, please run your own checks.

 

Mealybugs

In leaf axils, on the lower surfaces of leaves, and on the roots, mealybugs occur as white, cottony masses. Sometimes, honeydew and sooty mold are found, and infested plants become underdeveloped, and plant parts tend to die with severe infestations.

Regulation of root mealybugs is carried out with an insecticide in soil drenches. You can use neem oil spray as well. When adding pesticides to the soil, caution must be taken to ensure that the pots have adequate drainage and that no saucers are attached, or there may be phytotoxicity.

 

Sooty mold

Sooty mold, a sticky material produced by some insects, is a fungus that develops on plants and other surfaces covered by honeydew. The name of Sooty mold derives from the fungi’s dark threadlike growth (mycelium) that resembles a coating of soot.

Sooty mold does not infect plants but spreads where honeydew deposits collect on plant parts and other surfaces.

It is better to handle plant mold like sooty mold by addressing the root of the problem. Immediately remove the infected leaves and stems to get rid of sooty mold. Now, determine which insect you have first and then eradicate it from your garden.

The sooty plant mold growth will be washed off the leaves, roots, and branches after the pest problem has been fixed. For both the insect problem and the fungus, neem oil is an important remedy.

 

Tips for Growing Hoya Heuschkeliana

• Don’t chop off Hoya Heuschkeliana flower spikes or peduncles after it has flowered, as they will bloom from them again.
• Hoya Heuschkeliana doesn’t mind being a bit root-bound. Preserve in the same pot for years, but remember to fertilize throughout spring and summer.
• When you find the accurate spot for your Hoya Heuschkeliana, try not to reposition it.
• Neem oil is most useful for treating the fungal diseases of Hoya Heuschkeliana.
• Avoid contact with milky/white sap; as such organisms can cause skin irritation. As sap can be poisonous, keep plants away from kids and pets.

 

Frequently Asked Questions about Hoya Heuschkeliana

 

Why does my Hoya Heuschkeliana plant not bloom?

Hoya will struggle to flower as a consequence of too big a pot, too much water, or too much fertilizer. A five-inch pot is appropriate for a mature plant due to its limited root system. Being pot-bound is a huge advantage for this plant; in fact, it can promote flowering.

 

How often do you water your Hoya Heuschkeliana plant?

During the growing season, it should be adequate if you water the Hoya Heuschkeliana once a week. However, consider watering them only once every two weeks or once a month in the fall and winter, when their growth ability has gone. It is often safer to underwater Hoya plants because of their ability to rot than to overwater them.

 

Can Hoya Heuschkeliana grow in low light?

The Hoya Heuschkeliana is not fussy about light. It’ll do better in a bright spot, but in low light conditions, too, they’ll be just fine.

 

How can I make my Hoya Heuschkeliana grow faster?

Artificial illumination will certainly help the Hoya Heuschkeliana to grow faster. Diffused light is better in outdoor settings. However, too much intense sun will make the leaves faded and grey. More light allows the Hoya Heuschkeliana plant to grow healthier and also helps to prevent the soil from being too damp.

 

Conclusion

This plant is a must-have because it is great for the light garden or anywhere you have a slight warmth and added humidity. If the environment is accurate, it will flower for you all year long. It will produce pink, yellow, and red flowers.

It has a yellow-flowered type, which is considered to be a different subspecies, Hoya Heuschkeliana  ssp. Cajanoae. You can place at it anywhere in your house, and it will always guarantee a pleasing sight for you.