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How To Plant Amaryllis Seeds The Simple Way!

How To Plant Amaryllis Seeds The Simple Way!

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Are you planning on planting amaryllis plants in your garden or the front porch of your house?

You can use three ways to propagate this flower, including dividing bulbs, separating offsets, and planting seeds.

Can you grow amaryllis plants from seeds? Yes, definitely.

Despite the fact that the process can be time-consuming, it is possible to plant and grow amaryllis seeds.

However, sourcing these seeds pose a challenge as they are scarce and expensive.

However, if your neighbor has already mature amaryllis, you can collect some seeds from the seed pods.

 

How to plant amaryllis seeds

First, remove the seeds from their pods by slowly rubbing them in your thumb. Let them dry for several days before planting in individual pots with well aerated and draining soil. Add mulch over the soil and seeds. Once they germinate to a height of 3-4 centimeters, transplant them.

 

Step-By-Step Guide In Planting Amaryllis Seeds

 

1. Remove the seeds from the pods

If you are sourcing these seeds from previous plants, ensure they are mature, and pods are ready for harvest.

After yellowing and splitting, go ahead and take them from the plants. Rub them slowly in your thumb, and you will start to feel tiny seeds inside.

After which, you allow them to dry for several days before planting.

However, if you purchase your seeds, you do not have to dry them. Just go straight into planting them.

 

2. Plant amaryllis seeds

You can plant them in small individual pots or a nursery with your dried seeds, just like how tomatoes are grown.

If you’ll use a pot to plant the seeds in, ensure it has a proper drainage system. Drill some holes to the side and bottom to ensure the seeds do not become waterlogged.

Place some clean and seedless mulching material to cover the soil and the seeds.

Place the pot under the shade to avoid direct sun. This will minimize the evaporation rate ensuring the seeds have medium moist and are not waterlogged.

In about three to four weeks of planting, they will start to germinate. You will notice some grass-like leaves sprouting from the soils.

When they reach about three to four centimeters tall, it is time to transplant them to your desired location.

 

How To Sow Amaryllis Seeds

 

Planting them in a flat or pot

Should you place them in a container, apply mulch and wait for them to germinate?

For a better result, follow the professional strategy. Sow a single seed per cell in case of flats or one inch apart in a container.

The distance allows them to spread their roots and minimize nutrient competition thus, promoting healthy plantlets.

How high should the mulching material be?

The covering material should be an eighth-inch high. This helps maintain moisture after watering, allowing you to forgo several days without water.

 

Sprout the seeds in a water container

Using a clear jar, fill it with an inch of tepid water. Place the seeds inside and remove the one that sinks at the bottom as they are not viable.

With the remaining floating seeds, cover the jar with a loose lid. Place it in a warm area, making sure to check on it daily if you need to add water to it.

In about four weeks, the seeds will germinate, producing a single root. The root will then start growing into a bulb.

When the roots reach half an inch, you can already start transplanting the seedlings.

 

Use a moist paper towel

This is the third strategy that you can use to germinate your seeds. It involves wrapping the seeds with a moist paper towel before putting them inside a plastic bag that’s sealed.

A ziplock bag also does the trick.

Maintain a daily check routine, ensuring the paper does not dry out. Moisture is necessary for seed germination in all cases.

It takes the standard period of about four weeks for seeds to germinate.

However, please wait until the roots are about half an inch before transplanting them. If you transplant them in a pot, ensure it is covered with soil for up to four inches deep.

 

Transplanting amaryllis plantlets

Using a toothpick, make a tiny hole for the root. Place the roots inside the hole, making sure to leave the seed casing atop the soil.

For plantlets, take and plant them in a larger pot or field. If they are in danger of being exposed to frost, it is essential to place them in a protected location until summer.

The area to transplant your plantlets should receive sun during morning hours and shade in the afternoon.

How regular should you water them?

Allow the plantlets to dry slightly before watering them. However, do not wait long until they wilt.

For health and strong stem, you can use soluble fertilizers for amaryllis such as peter’s 20-20-20.

Follow the measurement instructions strictly as too much of the fertilizer can burn your lovely plantlets.

At night, since the temperatures usually fall below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, it is essential to move them back indoors. Avoid giving your plantlets a dormant period.

During winter, place them in the south-facing window. However, regularly turn them to ensure they do not grow lopsided.

In three years, the plant will enter the dormancy phase, a sign that the plant is ready to shoot its first flower and reward you with an excellent bloom.

 

Amaryllis After-Harvest Care

After producing the seeds, the plant has depleted much of its energy. It has fewer chances of survival but is not impossible.

If you want it to continue blooming and producing, it is essential to take care of it after harvesting.

 

What After-Harvest Plant Care Means

Remove the old flower stalks. Do it carefully to avoid damaging the foliage.

The leaves will undergo photosynthesis, providing the carbohydrate supply necessary to nourish the bulb and replenish its energy reserves.

During summer, keep the mother bulb and the offspring under the sun during the morning hours. Supply them with water and fertilizers by use of fertilizer soluble like peter’s 10-30-20 to boost blossom.

The mother bulb should have not less than eight-week rest during summer or early fall. This ensures it gets enough energy flowing during winter.

If it does not go dormant, stop watering to force it into dormancy.

After yellowing and dying, remove the foliage. Place the pot in an area where the temperatures don’t plummet below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

During the dormancy period, avoid watering and applying fertilizers.

When they are ready to flower again, transfer them to a much warmer place with room temperatures of about 68 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (20-24 degrees Celsius) and resume watering.

After flowering, you can resume applying fertilizers.