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Monstera Karstenianum #1 Best Care Guide

Monstera Karstenianum #1 Best Care Guide

If you’re looking for a rare and unique plant, the Monstera karstenianum (also known as the Monstera sp. Peru) is a treasure.

The Monstera karstenianum only needs indirect light, normal watering, and organic well-draining soil. The only issue to worry about with the plant are scale bugs, including brown scales and mealybugs.

Like most Monstera plants, this plant is super simple to care for.

The plant has leather-like green leaves that feel like braille on your fingertips. The texture and design pop off the leaf. And the stems are long and twist around like vines.

That’s because the Monstera karstenianum is a climbing vine that grows fast.

You might need a mossy or burlap pole for your Monstera karstenianum to wrap around, as it gets longer.

Or people love to use hanging baskets for this plant and we don’t blame them.

You can hang the basket from the ceiling in your living room or kitchen. And make it home to your Monstera plant.

Like we said earlier, you don’t have to stress over the care of the Monstera karstenianum. The plant is simple to care for.

It needs the same care that the average plant does.

But you still need to know the facts to care for one of these Monsteras.

So, we share with you all our knowledge on growing and caring for a Monstera karstenianum.


Monstera Karstenianum Plant Care Guide



Monstera karstenianum plants thrive in organic and well-draining soil. Well-draining soil is right in the middle when it comes to drainage.

This soil is loose enough that excess water drains right on through to the drainage holes of the pot.

This stops your plant’s roots from becoming soaked in moisture for long periods. Too much moisture stops oxygen from getting to the roots.

Monstera karstenianums that sit in too much water can develop several conditions.

The worst condition from waterlogging is root rot (also known as wet feet). From sitting in too much water, the roots of the plant start to rot.

Rotting roots can lead to the rotting of the plant. This, of course, can lead to the death of your Monstera.

If you catch root rot early, you have a chance to save the plant. But the only way to know is to dig the plant up and examine the roots.

When not all the roots are affected and the rot hasn’t spread to the rest of the plant, you can trim the bad roots off.

You have to do this with a sterilized pair of pruning shears.

But if the root rot has spread, you might as well toss the Monstera karstenianum plant out.

Now, the soil for the Monstera needs to be able to hold water as well as it drains excessive water.

Otherwise, your plant won’t receive the hydration it needs to survive.

Organic well-draining soil isn’t hard to create. And soil that isn’t draining well isn’t hard to fix.

We have a list of organic materials that you can use as well-draining soil. Or you can even mix them in with other soil to help with drainage.

  • compost
  • mulch
  • peat-moss
  • perlite
  • sand
  • shredded bark
  • vermiculite

The pH of your Monstera karstenianum’s soil should be neutral. It should range from five to seven and a half pH.



A Monstera karstenianum plant needs indirect light, also known as filtered sun. It needs light right in the middle of the two extremes.

Most Monstera plants can’t take direct sunlight or direct light. Direct sunlight burns their leaves and stems, leaving black scorch marks.

But they can’t live in complete shade either. They need sunlight to go through the photosynthesis process.

One way to achieve the right amount of light is by placing your Monstera in a north-facing window.

If you use artificial light, you still don’t want to set your plant right underneath it.

This Monstera can take about half an hour of direct sunlight. But your plant shouldn’t sit in direct sunlight for much longer than this.



Monstera karstenianums like moist soil. This means you should never let the soil dry out all the way.

Bone dry soil can be dangerous for your plant but so can over-watering your plant.

When you expose your Monstera karstenianum plant to too much water, it will develop root rot.

If you’re not sure when to water your Monstera, stick your finger into the soil up to your knuckle.

When the soil is dry down to that point (about two inches) it’s time to water the plant. But if the soil is still moist, check it again in a few days.

On average, you’ll be watering your plant twice a week.



The best temperature range for a Monstera karstenianum is between 65F (18C) and 80F (27C).

Avoid freezing temperatures. During the winter months, you want to make sure the heat is up near your plant.

Temperatures under 65F will slow the growth of your Monstera karstenianum. Temperatures under 50F (10C) can completely stop the growth of the plant.



Since Monstera karstenianums are tropical plants, humidity is an important factor.

You can use a humidifier if you already own one or have the money to buy one.

But this isn’t your only option to upping the humidity around your Monstera. The easiest method to create humidity is the pebble tray method.

First, you fill a tray full of pebbles to the top. Then you fill the tray with water. Make sure the water doesn’t cover the pebbles.

Now all you have to do is sit your Monstera karstenianum on top of the pebbles. Make sure the pot isn’t touching any water.

As the water evaporates, it creates moisture in the air. Your plant sucks this moisture up. It’s getting all the humidity it needs.



You should fertilize a Monstera karstenianum plant about once a month.

A time-released fertilizer with a good amount of magnesium works best for this plant.

It will release fertilizer slowly until you fertilize the plant again.

Avoid fertilizing your plant during the winter months. Only fertilize during the growing season.

During winter, the salt from the fertilizer builds up in your plant’s soil. The build-up of salt will burn the Monstera plant.

When it comes to fertilizing this plant with a fertilizer that isn’t time-released, less is more. You don’t want to drown the plant in liquid fertilizer.

When you do go to fertilize the plant, make sure you’re fertilizing around six inches from the base.



The most common method for propagating a Monstera karstenianum is through stem cuttings.

You can root these stem cuttings either in soil or in water.

We’ll go into more detail below so you can properly propagate your plant, no matter which method you choose.



The average Monstera karstenianum grows to be a little over a foot in height.

But with enough space, some of these plants have been known to grow to be 20 feet (six meters) in height.

The leaves of this Monstera grow to be between two inches to four inches in width.



A Monstera karstenianum plant doesn’t need to be repotted but once every two or three years.

Avoid repotting the plant unless it’s necessary. You should only repot when the plant has become too big for its’ pot or hanging basket.

Like with other plants, when you do repot, use a pot that’s only a little bigger than the one it’s in. You don’t want the roots to have too much room and stress out.

Monstera sp. Peru
Monstera karstenianum, which is also known as Monstera sp. Peru, features shiny dark leaves with a very interesting texture. The plant itself is native to Southern Mexico and Central America.

Monstera Karstenianum Propagation Steps

The Monstera karstenianum comes from a tropical climate, so propagate during warmer months.

For this Monstera, this is springtime. March is the best month to try this. You don’t want to propagate the plant during the winter.


Propagation in soil (stem cuttings)

Your very first step is to get a Monstera karstenianum stem cutting.

Before you get started cutting, you need to keep a few factors in mind. Your stem cutting needs be between six and eight inches in length.

You should also cut above a leaf node and it should have about two leaves on it.

To cut your stem cutting you need sterilized pruning shears. To sterilize the shears, use the isopropyl alcohol you have sitting around.

You’re ready to get your stem cutting so go ahead and make the cut.

Now, it’s time to cure the stem cutting. Curing a stem cutting means that the end you cut needs time to callous over. When it callouses over, it improves the cutting’s chance of rooting. To create this calloused end, the cutting needs to sit in a warm room of your home for seven to 10 days.

In the meantime, you should get your plant pot (or hanging basket) and soil ready. Don’t forget to use well-draining organic soil when you set up.

Once your stem cutting has calloused, you get to plant it. You’re going to plant it with the calloused end in the soil about three inches deep. Pack the soil around the cutting. This should hold the stem cutting up.

If for some reason the soil isn’t holding the stem cutting upright, you can use a straw. Stick the straw in the soil until it’s about two inches taller than the cutting. Tie the stem cutting to the straw.

All that’s left is to tend to your new plant as you tend to the mother plant. Water it when the soil’s dry and keep it away from bright direct light. Within three weeks, the stem cutting should start rooting.


Propagation in water (stem cuttings)

Like the Monstera karstenianum stem cutting in the soil, you need a cutting for this method.

There are a few things to check out before you do the actual cutting from the mother plant.

First, the mother plant must be healthy.

Second, the stem cutting needs to be at least eight inches in length. When propagating in water, your stem cutting needs to be longer.

You also need to cut right above a leaf node and have at least one leaf attached.

To cut the stem cutting, you need a pair of sterilized pruning shears. You can use 70% isopropyl alcohol to sterilize these shears.

Now, you can go ahead and cut.

Next, you need a decent-sized clear jar. Make sure you clean the jar before you use it. Fill the jar halfway with filtered lukewarm water. Don’t use unfiltered water. It contains chlorine which can burn your stem cutting.

It’s time to place the stem cutting in the clear jar. You’re going to need to use a jar that’s tall enough for you to lean the cutting against so it sits upright.

For this method, you need to change the water out about every two or three days. Again, use filtered water and not tap water from the faucet.

Once you have moved the stem cutting to a jar, you can go ahead and get the pot and soil ready. Make sure you’re using well-draining and organic soil for the new plant.

Watch the stem cutting as it starts to grow roots. The great part about using a clear jar is that you can see everything. Roots should take about a month or so to start growing.

You’re going to wait a month and a half to two months before you move your new plant to soil.

Once the time has come, you’re going to gently plant the stem cutting in the pot (or hanging basket).

You have to be careful during this process so you don’t ruin the plant’s new roots.

Once you have planted the stem cutting and roots, you’re going to care for the plant like the original.

Make sure you water and fertilize it. Don’t sit it in direct sunlight. Keep an eye on it and watch your new Monstera karstenianum plant grow.


Common Problems with the Monstera Karstenianum

Nobody wants to deal with plant pests. But no matter how hard you try, you can’t always avoid these annoying insects.

The Monstera karstenianum isn’t any different. For the most part, the plant doesn’t have that many issues, though.

But the plant is still prone to a couple of plant pests.

The first pest that gravitates towards this plant is spider mites. Spider mites aren’t bugs like other indoor plant pests.

They’re actually arachnids and they’re close cousins to spiders. Which explains the name of the creepy crawly pests.

There are over 1,200 species of spider mites.

Spider mites feed on the sap in your Monstera karstenianum plant.

The sap is important to your plant. The cells inside of the sap carry both hydration and nutrition throughout the plant.

This process is one of many that leads a plant to photosynthesis.

The second common pest that attacks indoor Monstera karstenianums is soft-bodied brown scales.

Brown scales are stationary most of their short life. They’re so small they look like flat brown spots scattered under the leaves of your plant.

Like spider mites, brown scales feed on the sap of your plant. Once the infestation grows, these insects can kill your Monstera.

But what is actually the most common pest to attack a Monstera karstenianum plant?


Mealybugs have a waxy outer coating and they’re covered in a white cottony substance.

They hide underneath the leaves of your plant to suck the sap from it, instead of sucking from the stem.

Once the sap passes through their digestive system, it’s left as a honeydew secretion. This sticky honeydew often leads to black sooty mold.

On the bright side, getting rid of these three plant pests isn’t as difficult as it might seem.

You can use 70% isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab to rid your plant of small pest infestations.

For larger infestations, use insecticidal soap. It’s an all-natural pesticide that kills pests.


Tips for an Unhappy Monstera Karstenianum

Keeping your Monstera karstenianum plant happy isn’t as hard as you think. These plants are simple to care for.

Now and then you’ll come into a few issues. But these issues are usually easy to remedy.


Your Monstera Karstenianum is Losing Leaves

A Monstera karstenianum plant that’s losing leaves isn’t getting enough sunlight.

You don’t want it to receive direct sunlight, but your plant still needs sun to thrive. It also needs light to go through photosynthesis.

Move your plant closer to the grow light if you’re using artificial lights.

Or move your Monstera to an east-facing window so it’s getting plenty of light during the day.


Your Monstera Karstenianum’s Leaves are Yellow and Dry

Yellow and dry Monstera karstenianum leaves aren’t receiving the humidity needed.

They need that moisture in the air. It mimics the tropical environment these plants originate from.

Always check the amount of humidity in the room. If there’s not enough, try our tips above to create that much needed moisture.

The yellowing of the Monstera karstenianum’s leaves can also be due to under-watering it.

Water your plant right away if you believe that’s the problem.


Your Monstera Karstenianum’s Leaves Have Brown Tips

A Monstera karstenianum that has leaves with brown tips is showing more signs of a lack of humidity. The air in the room is too dry.

Remember, you need to mimic a tropical forest around Monstera plants. This includes keeping the humidity in the air high.

We listed a few ways to create humidity for your plant in the “Humidity” section.


Other Varieties of Monstera

Of course, the Monstera karstenianum isn’t the only species from the genus Monstera.

These are only a few of the amazing Monstera species out there.

Monstera deliciosa

The Monstera deliciosa is loved by every Monstera lover. This plant isn’t only a tropical dream but a tropical treat. Yes, this plant produces fruit.

Monstera pinnatipartita

Monstera pinnatipartita plants have stiff and glossy leaves. The glossy leaves bring beauty to the table that other plants aren’t able to.

Monstera adansonii

This plant produces large holes in its leaves, much like the Monstera deliciosa. The large holes make intriguing designs.

Monstera dubia

These Monstera plants are a small species with gorgeous heart-shaped leaves. Unlike other plants, the Monstera dubia won’t start producing leaves until it’s hit maturity.

Monstera vasquezii

The Monstera vasquezii also goes by the name “Croat”. It produces interesting flowers and asymmetrical leaves.


Monstera Karstenianum FAQ

When should I prune my Monstera karstenianum?

There isn’t a set time when it comes to pruning dead leaves from your Monstera karstenianum. You can do this task whenever.

What happens if my dog gets a hold of my Monstera karstenianum and eats it?

The Monstera karstenianum plant is very toxic to you and your pets. If your dog eats any part of the plant, get them to the vet as soon as possible. It can cause a swollen throat and tongue.

Why do some of my Monstera karstenianum’s leaves have large yellow or white spots?

Monstera karstenianum’s with leaves with yellow or white spots are variegated. But not all Monstera karstenianum plants are the variegated variety.



The Monstera karstenianum plant is worth introducing to your plant collection. Every plant lover appreciates having a Monstera species around. From the feel of the leaves to the smell of the plant, you’ll have the tropics in your home.

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Friday 24th of July 2020

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