A somewhat rare but sought after specimen of the genus Monstera is the Monstera pinnatipartita that hails from the South American rain forests of Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru.
What makes it so exciting to grow Monstera pinnatipartita is the dramatic leaf transformation as the plant matures.
As with all Monsteras, the leaf pinnation and fenestrations or slots start appearing as the plant gets bigger, making them unrecognizable from their juvenile states.
The tendency in Monstera pinnatipartita is towards deep splits right up to the midrib, rather than just slots.
Monstera pinnatipartita care is fairly straightforward with basic requirements of neotropical epiphytes in that they need indirect light, plenty of humidity, even moisture and moderate temperature.
They typically produce monocot flowers, i.e. the classic spathe and spadix structure.
You can grow Monstera pinnatipartita in a pot with a totem pole indoors, which is the ideal way, but it can be trained to creep up a wall or a tree too.
- 1 MONSTERA PINNAPARTITA CARE GUIDE
- 2 MONSTERA PINNATIPARTITA PROPAGATION METHODS – STEP BY STEP
- 3 COMMON PROBLEMS WITH PLANT MONSTERA PINNATIPARTITA
- 4 TIPS TO KEEP MONSTERA PINNATIPARTITA PROBLEM-FREE
- 5 FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT MONSTERA PINNATIPARTITA
- 6 CONCLUSION
MONSTERA PINNAPARTITA CARE GUIDE
The best way to achieve optimal conditions for Monstera pinnatipartita care is to observe the natural environs of the plant.
The seeds germinate in the droppings of forest animals. (You may go, no shit!).
Being an epiphyte, Monstera pinnatipartita grows without roots in the soil living above the ground creeping over another tree gathering nutrients from the air, organic debris, decaying vegetation or animal droppings.
The ideal soil mix for to grow Monstera pinnatipartita is obviously one that contains plenty of organic matter like mulch, compost, bark bits, and if you can lay your hands on animal dung based organic manure nothing like.
About 50% in volume is good. The other 50% is ideally sandy potting soil mixed with perlite.
The soil needs to be able to retain moisture but should also be absolutely well-draining if you want to grow Monstera pinnatipartita and not kill it.
A very close flowering species to this plant is Anthurium.
A great Monstera pinnatipartita care hack is to go for a good Anthurium potting soil mix available at stores.
Once again I would recommend observing forest life for clues on Monstera pinnatipartita care.
The species “climb” in order to reach brighter light cutting through the vegetation on the ground.
So, in order to trick them into getting taller, I simply duplicate this environment as best possible and grow Monstera pinnatipartita in bright shade.
I avoid sunny windows or direct sunlight, as I’ve observed this could burn the leaves.
Basically, you can grow Monstera Pinnatipartita anywhere inside your home thanks to its low light tolerance, but if there’s too little light it grows slower than usual and the leaves become darker.
In low light, leaves may also grow more sparsely and slowly.
The leaves lose the lovely slits and perforations which is the first reason why you would’ve chosen to grow Monstera Pinnatipartita in the first place. So, be warned.
To grow Monstera Pinnatipartita well, the soil needs to be kept moist but not wet.
It is often recommended to water when the soil becomes almost completely dry. But in my experience, the amount of water your plant needs depends on things such as temperature, humidity, how much light it receives, the size of the plant, etc.
One Monstera pinnatipartita care hack that has worked for me is to acclimatize it. So basically you water about once a week until the plant gets used to the routine.
If you see the leaves yellowing then cut back the watering for a couple of weeks. Then resume regular watering.
Somehow, the plant does seem to grow better with a decent level of water provided it gets used it.
Also, whenever you do, water deeply until it leaves the drainage holes, particularly if you’re fertilizing the plant.
The plant likes warm temperatures, but you could call it somewhat chill resistant. It can take a minimum of 50ºF (10°C) but never lower.
That said, you can grow Monstera Pinnatipartita best in average temperatures between 65-80ºF (18-27ºC).
The plant starts to show active growth at 65°F (18°C) and will completely stop growing below 50ºF (10ºC).
If you’re growing this plant indoors then maintain a room temperature accordingly.
Outdoor growing is possible only in hardy climatic zones where it rarely drops 50ºF (10°C). The plant is tropical, so it’s susceptible to frost.
A ‘good to have’ element in Monstera pinnatipartita care is humidity, as these plants belong to regions with moderate to high humidity. Exposed to heavy rains in their natural habitat, they in fact thrive in levels upwards of 60%.
That said, you can grow Monstera Pinnatipartita even in average humidity conditions, and it will be fine but it will appreciate if you increase it.
Here’s an effective Monstera pinnatipartita care hack to manage humidity without having to rely on a humidifier. Make a sort of a “grove” for several varieties of Monsteras.
You can even grow them along with a few Philodendrons and Pothos varieties.
This huddling helps create a warm and muggy environment around the plants that these epiphytes seem to love.
Not to mention, they even look gorgeous with multiple shapes and colors trailing, creeping, climbing and hanging together.
If you have the space, trying to grow Monstera Pinnatipartita in a well-lit bathroom! This is a great place for humidity loving plants.
I grow Monstera Pinnatipartita in a soil mix rich in organic manure and also give it additional feeding because they do seem to do better with it.
Decomposed organic matter mixed with the soil acts as slow-release organic food for the plant. Topping it with a balanced 20-20-20 or 20-10-10 fertilizer increase leaf size and produces a larger, healthier plant.
A fish emulsion well diluted and administered every 4 to 6 weeks gives it a real boost spring-to-summer. Remember to cut back on feeding the plant in winters so that the plant can rest.
Once the plant is mature, my bi-monthly Monstera pinnatipartita care schedule includes a balanced orchid or anthurium fertilizer which you can pick up from your local store.
This is just to boost the blooms and to be used only in the growing months.
In order to propagate and grow Monstera Pinnatipartita stem cuttings or tip cuttings are the popular methods. They readily take root either in soil or water.
Over time, your plant will grow aerial roots from its stem which help in propagation.
Monstera pinnatipartita care is overall easier indoors because of its growing peculiarities. The leaves remain and average size and it grows tall rather than wide.
The interesting feature of this monstera variety is that the internodes are barely visible unlike other Monstera varieties.
The emerald green leaf petioles appear to be very closely stacked one over the other which makes it a slow creeper suitable for indoor gardening.
It’s also a great idea to grow Monstera pinnatipartita outdoors in the ground and let it creep up a corner wall for a more spectacular impact.
This way, the leaves become completely divided or pinnate and you may be lucky enough to see its beautiful monocot pure white waxy flowers with a spathe and spadix, typical of all plants belonging to the arum family, Araceae.
Just make sure they’re not in direct sun or they burn. In the natural habitat the plant grows to as great heights as 33-66′ (10-20m) in its quest for sunlight, often losing contact with the ground.
It’s best to grow Monstera Pinnatipartita like a climber rather than a trailing vine.
It should be planted in a fairly big container with a moss-filled pole, a piece of wood, or another form of trellis to climb with their stems.
The stems send down long, dangling aerial roots, which support the plant.
The roots like it airy so keep the soil loose and the container of a generous size.
Unlike other epiphytes, this doesn’t necessarily need to be rootbound.
Also being top-heavy, Monstera pinnatipartita care requires a stable base.
MONSTERA PINNATIPARTITA PROPAGATION METHODS – STEP BY STEP
Propagate Monstera pinnatipartita from tip cuttings
- Choose a stem tip from a mature mother plant, ideally where aerial roots are visible
- Cut the stem tip with at least two leaf nodes using a pair of garden scissors.
- Pinch the leaves at the bottom node.
- Keep a pot with a 50-50 mix of sphagnum moss and perlite that’s evenly very moist but not wringing wet.
- You don’t need a rooting hormone for the cuttings because they typically root quite readily.
- Stick in the stem with at least one node well under the soil and press down the soil for support.
- Keep the pot in a fairly bright spot but away from direct sun.
- Keep the soil moist until the cutting is established. This should take 1 – 2 weeks. Move it to regular potting mix after 8 weeks.
Propagate Monstera pinnatipartita in water
- Follow the instructions up to step 3 in the above section
- Select a jar that has a mouth that is at least 3 inches wide and only deep enough that the nodes of the cutting are under water but the terminal leaves are out.
- Pro tip: If the mouth of the jar is too narrow the roots break while pulling the cutting out.
- Put your cutting in the jar filled with clean water.
- Keep in spot where there is indirect sunlight and don’t disturb the cutting
- New roots will sprout from the nodes submerged in water after 1 – 2 weeks.
- You can transfer the cutting to soil once the roots are an inch or two long. Move it to regular potting mix after 8 weeks.
How to air-layer your Monstera pinnatipartita
You’ll need a 6” transparent plastic bag, sphagnum moss and a few twisty ties.
- Choose a node with aerial roots on a strong leggy stem. Make a shallow slit no deeper that 1/4th thickness of the stem right under that node.
- Punch a few small holes at the bottom of your plastic bag and put a fistful of evenly moist sphagnum moss at the bottom. Cut the top end of the plastic bag such that you get flaps to roll around the stem.
- Now let’s get to the plant. With one palm hold the water-soaked moss in the plastic bag, against the selected aerial root node. With the free hand wrap the plastic flaps around the stem. Secure this bag of moss to the stem with twisty ties making a nice wet moss cocoon for the node.
- Keep the moss moist by watering through the holes on the plastic.
- Within 2 weeks, you’ll notice that roots have grown into the moss.
- Remove the moss without breaking your new roots and cut the stem below the new roots separating the cutting from the mother
- Pot the new plant keeping the soil moist until it is well-established.
- Pro tip: for better chances of success do this for multiple nodes at one time so that at least one of them catches root.
COMMON PROBLEMS WITH PLANT MONSTERA PINNATIPARTITA
Yellow leaves: Overwatering is the most common cause of yellow leaves. If your plant has yellow leaves, the first step is to check the soil.
If the soil has been consistently soggy or drains poorly, or if you have been forgetting to empty the drip tray after watering, then overwatering is the likely cause.
Brown edges: If you notice the edges getting brown and dry then you’re underwatering or overexposing to direct sun.
New leaves are not splitting: Usually, it has to do with light. If it’s getting colder where you live then that will slow its growth due to weaker sunlight.
The fenestrations should return if you move it to a spot with good light and once the growing season starts again. It could also be the absence of something to climb on.
Those aerial roots attach to a surface and help with leaf maturity.
Common pests and infections: When you grow Monstera Pinnatipartita, pests and insects are normally not a problem since these are hardy tropicals.
However, the most common pests mealybugs and spider mites. The best control measure is a routine application of insecticidal soap and neem oil once a month or as prescribed on the package.
My Monstera pinnatipartita care routine for pest control includes washing down the leaves with a water jet once a week when I water the plant and wiping them dry.
Bacterial/fungal infections can be avoided by keeping the plant surroundings clean, removing dead leaves, and using sterile organic feeds. Also, make sure you dry the plant after misting, sponging etc.
TIPS TO KEEP MONSTERA PINNATIPARTITA PROBLEM-FREE
- Grow Monstera Pinnatipartita bright shade and no direct sunlight.
- Moisture is important but don’t let your plant sit in water.
- Use animal waste manure in the soil mix for solid growth.
- Room temperatures are ideal for growth.
- Huddle the plant along with other epiphytic vines to manage humidity.
- Give it a surface like totems, grills or walls to climb on. Monstera roots are not the type of roots that damage walls or surfaces.
- Monstera Pinnatipartita leaves have the ability to rotate to follow the sun. So turning the pot around periodically so that a different side of the plant gets sun is a good way to get wholesome growth.
- Grow several vines in one pot for a bushy look
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT MONSTERA PINNATIPARTITA
Can Monstera Pinnatipartita live in water?
In my experience the do readily take root in water and can even live there for a time. But in the absence of something to climb on they don’t end of growing in water. I
How do I get my Monstera Pinnatipartita to climb?
An ideal way to train monstera as a house plant is to give it a moss totem on which to climb.
Is Monstera Pinnatipartita the same as Split Leaf Philodendron?
Although the genus Monstera and the genus Philodendron are related, the plants in these genera are NOT one and the same.
They cannot be cross-pollinated. Monstera typically can have leaf fenestrations whereas Split-leaf philodendron just has splits.
Monstera has unisex flowers whereas Philos. have bisexual flowers. There are many more such differences.
How do you grow Monstera Pinnatipartita to look bushy?
The tendency for this plant is to get leggy as it matures and it doesn’t branch too often. Plant several cuttings in one pot to get a bushy look.
I used to confuse Monstera with the very popular Split Leaf Philodendron (Philodendron bipinnatifidum) and that’s not surprising at all considering that even scientists pondered over it until late 19th century advancements in genetic sciences revealed the differences between the two genera.
Monsteras have witnessed a recent boost in popularity with indoor gardeners.
Likewise, the slotted leaf motifs have made their way on to just about everything – wall paintings, cushions, lampshades, coffee mugs, etc! If you don’t have one in your collection yet, perhaps it’s time to start!
If you’re a first-time gardener on the lookout for easy growing plants I recommend you go through our houseplant tips.